How to Light Night Interiors: Pt 2

INCLUDED IN THIS LESSON:  15 Minutes of Instructional Video, In-Depth Written Breakdown, Lighting Schematics, and Side by Side Comparison for better instruction    –Supplied w/English Subtitles

IN THIS LESSON YOU WILL LEARN:  In the second part of our Night Interiors series, Shane Hurlbut ASC and his team take you through the process of finessing your lighting setup with a few simple, but brilliant tricks. They’ll show you that you don’t need huge lights and massive setups to get that perfect look! Learn how to use your sheers as a powerful weapon and make your MoVI fly up to the ceiling!

  • How to utilize production design to perfect your exposure.
  • What lighting tools help sell a studio shoot as a location shoot.
  • Important factors to consider when choosing focal lengths (especially on a soundstage).
  • How to use your MoVI as a crane.
  • How to get the most out of your top shot.

REVIEWS:

<<<Antonio A>>> I love it…. !
<<<Brazon D>>> Amazing tips !!! thanks Shane team
<<<Mark P>>> This site keeps getting better and better. Awesome!
<<<Jacob>>>Learning tons from this!
<<<Kelly>>>I needed this!
<<<Scott>>>Superb! Can’t even count how many little insights I got from this video. Out of five stars… I give it nine!
<<<Ethan>>>This is fantastic! Love the summaries at the end to close out, helps a bunch!
<<<Brad>>>Seriously Shane these night interior lessons are absolutely gold! Thank you so much for breaking it down with so much detail! The amount I’ve learned in the past 20 min is just crazy!

evan feng 22 days ago

Hi, professor, I wanna ask why would you use the false color on the flanders instead of using the false color on the red body?

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    • Shane Hurlbut, ASC    21 days ago

      @evan feng HI Evan, The false color on the Flanders gives me the ability to set my clip, my black and my gray midtones. The Red False color like all others you cannot control. Having this control enables you to be very precise.

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Bill Stone 16 days ago

Oops, didn’t get how the comments worked. Anyways – when SH is checking the temp of the Metal Hallide, and working to adjust the M8 to match, he says “the Metal Hallide is reading +1.3Magenta,” and then he says he’ll add a +1/2 green to the M8 to match the MH temp. I’m confused by this reading – if the MH is reading +1.3Magenta, how does that turn into gelling an M8 with +1/2 green? Thanks.

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    • Shane Hurlbut, ASC    15 days ago

      @Bill Stone HI Bill, So the way a color meter works is getting it color balanced so the Metal Halide fixture was green so it the meter was telling me to add magenta to turn it normal. But what we are using is to find how much green the metal halide urban light has in it so that we can match the M8 to it.

    • Bill Stone    15 days ago

      @Bill Stone Perfect ! I was wondering if the meter was telling you the light was reading +1.3 magenta or telling you that's what it needed to correct. Now I get it. Thank you!

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Bill Stone 16 days ago

Help understanding the 1/2 green correction on the M8

diggs 3 days ago

This series is fantastic and exactly what I’ve been looking to find for inspiration with a shoot I have coming up next week. How plausible would it be to be able to pull something like this off in an actual house during the day? Is there a course on this very subject that I’ve missed somewhere?

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    • Shane Hurlbut, ASC    2 days ago

      @diggs Hi Diggs, Yes, you would have to construct what we call a black tent. This is where you use overhead frames, like 12 x 12 or 20 x 20 depending on how deep you want your tent and how far the light has to be away from the window to give you realistic shadows, etc. You could use 10mm thick black visqueen from Home Depot to do this, your overhead frame becomes your infrastructure and with some grip clips or spring clips you could do this no problem. Here is the link to the Visqueen: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HUSKY-20-ft-x-100-ft-Black-10-mil-Polyethylene-Sheeting-CF1020B/100651795

    • diggs    2 days ago

      @diggs Thanks Shane! That was the direction I was headed but I hadn't nailed down the type of material that would be used or how tall/deep the box would have to be. This information helps out tremendously. Looking forward to sharing the results! Thanks again for all of your hard work and for sharing your knowledge with all of us!

    • Shane Hurlbut, ASC    23 days ago

      @diggs Hi Diggs, You are so welcome and looking forward to seeing some pics and shares when you have it completed

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448154889 7 days ago

Hi，guys.I

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    • 448154889    7 days ago

      @448154889 Hi，guys.I am

    • 448154889    7 days ago

      @448154889 Hi，guys.I am so love the BGM began at 15:00, could anyone can tell me it's name,thanks

    • Shane Hurlbut, ASC    5 days ago

      @448154889 Hi my friend, I do not understand what you are asking??

    • diggs    3 days ago

      @448154889 This series is fantastic and exactly what I've been looking to find for inspiration with a shoot I have coming up next week. How plausible would it be to be able to pull something like this off in an actual house during the day? Is there a course on this very subject that I've missed somewhere?

    • Shane Hurlbut, ASC    2 days ago

      @448154889 Hi Diggs, Yes, you would have to construct what we call a black tent. This is where you use overhead frames, like 12 x 12 or 20 x 20 depending on how deep you want your tent and how far the light has to be away from the window to give you realistic shadows, etc. You could use 10mm thick black visqueen from Home Depot to do this, your overhead frame becomes your infrastructure and with some grip clips or spring clips you could do this no problem. Here is the link to the Visqueen: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HUSKY-20-ft-x-100-ft-Black-10-mil-Polyethylene-Sheeting-CF1020B/100651795

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